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William T. Price of Amarillo.


Only one chasm in North America is deeper and wider — the Grand Canyon — and Palo Duro looks similar, with multi-coloured layers and spectacular eroded rock formations.

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D riving towards Amarillo, crossing a level plain under an enormous dome of sky, you see many cowboy-themed s for a restaurant called The Big Texan Steak Ranch. The plains around Amarillo are so vast, featureless, mirage-prone and disorientating that early Spanish explorers, borrowing a technique from native guides, would shoot arrows in the intended direction of travel to keep themselves on course.

The Big Texan offers a 72oz steak — that's four-and-a-half pounds, or two kilos of meat — and it's free of charge if you can eat the thing in an hour.

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It's now a state park. At a restaurant called African Safari East Amarillo Boulevardyou can eat goat meat and chapatis alongside Somalis and Sudanese who look thoroughly at home in what was once a quintessential Texas cow town.

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Richard Grant. It has been a roide attraction since Route 66 brought travellers to Amarillo, and it thrives to this day on one outrageous gimmick. Their military prowess and sheer ferocity brought the white frontier to a halt for years, until European diseases, to which they had no immunity, defeated the Comanches and ushered in the era of the cattleman and cowboy.

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The last stronghold of the free Comanches was a giant canyon called Palo Durowhich very few whites knew about, or even suspected existed in such a horizontal landscape. Amarillo, Texas: show me the way to eat, sleep and have fun.

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It's a preserved and renovated section of the old Route 66, with plenty of original s Americana still in evidence. In recent years, Amarillo has taken in immigrants and refugees from far-flung countries, and they have broadened its culinary palate exponentially. The cliffs and spires turn a deep red at sunset, and then you can watch that huge Texas sky fill up with stars. Visitors are encouraged to bring a can of spray-paint to the much-photographed Cadillac Rancha graffiti-covered art installation consisting of 10 old Cadillacs buried nose-first in the ground, a few miles west of town on Interstate Its creator is a local millionaire and art-prankster called Stanley Marsh 3and he's also put up thousands of mock road s all over Amarillo, which add a surreal flavour to this prosaic oil, cattle and banking town on the plains.

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His books include Bandit Ro, and Ghost Riders. What the s don't tell you is that the steak comes with a shrimp cocktail, bread roll, baked potato and salad, and you have to eat all of that too.

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Local hipsters get their organic coffee and craft beer at theand the Golden Light is a classic old bar and diner with live music. You can walk to Ohms Cafe for a cocktail and a sophisticated meal, and it's a short hop to the bars, cafes, galleries and antique stores on SW 6th Avenue, also known, confusingly, as Sixth Street. Seeing a gargantuan truck driver or oilfield worker attempting this feat is a hard thing to forget, especially if he succeeds, but there's a lot more to Amarillo than its most famous landmark.

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The best place to stay is probably the Marriott Courtyard Downtowna nicely done chain hotel in a historic building. If you're off to Amarillo on Route 66 or a road trip in Texas the cowboy town makes a great stop, with food from barbecue to south-east Asian — and the scenic Palo Duro canyon nearby.

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Reuse this content. From a distance, they look like normal American traffic s, but they carry images of strange creatures and provocative slogans: "I love the touch of silken flesh", "The body of a dead enemy always smells sweet", "Madness singing".

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Immense herds of bison roamed these tablelands, and after the Spanish inadvertently introduced the horse to North America, Comanche Indians learned to hunt them on horseback, and lived as mounted nomadic warrior. The Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas. Anyone with an interest in this extraordinary saga, or the old west in general, should not miss the Panhandle Plains Historical Museum in Canyon, Texas, a short drive south of Amarillo.

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